In late December 2025, while Thailand and Cambodia were in the middle of an armed border conflict and active operations were underway on both sides, I had what can only be described as a questionable idea:

Let’s ride to Sa Kaeo. Let’s do some off-road riding. Let’s see what happens.

Was it the best idea I’ve ever had? Absolutely not.

Was it the worst? Also no.

There are rides you plan, and rides that just happen. This was one of the planned ones—but even the best plans don’t prepare you for what the road gives back. The Three Pagodas Pass had been on my list for a while, a route stacked with history, grit, and the kind of roads that test both machine and rider. The rainy season had finally eased. In Thailand, you learn to respect the rain. Out here, a storm doesn’t just get you wet; it can pin you down on the roadside, staring at sheets of water that make the world disappear.